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DENVER TO STOCKHOLM

Arrival Day

Am I crazy to travel solo to Sweden? I arrive at Aarlanda, Stockholm’s gloomy airport, on a rainy, windy August morning. The short Swedish summer is definitely on it’s way out. After I collect my bags, I pass through customs and a larger than life size wall poster of Sweden’s King and Queen. I arrive without a real plan but with a real purpose. I’m in search of roots….connection…..place...and my search begins with my deepest roots...the Swedish Lake Country. To accomplish this, I set out for Vadstena, the heart of this beautiful and historic area.Stockholm Aarlanda

Stockholm Aarlanda


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The next few hours present a nightmare that any sensible traveler should avoid. I arrive at 7 am but my rental car is not ready until noon. Once I get into my Volvo, I realize it’s a standard shift. When is the last time you drove a standard?? For me, about 30 years ago.

Then I negotiate Stockholm traffic through murderous roundabouts where Swedish cars and trucks fly around like projectiles spun out from a centrifuge. Speed signs seem to be posted every 10 kilometers and the speed limits are constantly changing. Your car feels like a yoyo. Warning!!! There are speed cameras everywhere.

Rather than make a sensible decision like finding a hotel in Stockholm, I decide to drive to Vadstena that afternoon. My travel agent warned me that this would be a poor decision. It was. Sweden does not have conveniences like Holiday Inn Express along the interstate nor fast food drive-ups. What they do have is McDonalds. I find one, off the road, in Sodertalje. I order in English and the attendant is the soul of sweetness enjoying an opportunity to practice her English. Later when I can’t figure out where to throw my trash, a busboy is very rude to me. That was the only rudeness I encountered in Sweden in my entire month long stay.

Several hours later, I arrive, mentally trashed, in Vadstena.

Beautiful Vadstena

Beautiful Vadstena

Posted by Swedensolo 18.10.2010 10:22 Archived in Sweden Comments (0)

VADSTENA, OSTERGOTLAND

The Heart of Medieval Sweden

Location of Vadstena on Lake Vattern

Location of Vadstena on Lake Vattern

My hotel is Klosterhotellet, formerly a monastery with parts of it dating back to early medieval times. The front desk is staffed by a gorgeous young woman – tall, blonde, creamy complexion. There are two other beautiful blond young women who alternate with her – I keep getting them mixed up so I just address each one as “Miss Sweden.” Klosterhotellet

Klosterhotellet

One of many reception rooms at Klosterhotellet

One of many reception rooms at Klosterhotellet

Vadstena is an ancient ecclesiastical and royal center. The old cloister buildings were originally built as a palace for Birger Jarl’s son Valdemar in the middle of the 13th century. They were bequeathed to St. Birgitta in 1346 for use as a convent. The massive and impressive Abbey church (Vadstena Klosterkyrka) was completed in 1426, built to St. Birgitta’s specifications. She died in 1391 and her bones reside in a side altar. Abbey Church

Abbey Church

Abbey Church

Abbey Church

St. Birgitta's Convent

St. Birgitta's Convent

In the convent of St. Birgitta

In the convent of St. Birgitta

School Children

School Children

King Gustav Vasa built Vadstena Castle in 1545 as a defense center. It’s a beautiful renaissance palace overlooking Lake Vattern, a deep, cold lake formed by glaciers from the Ice Age. Today the castle has many uses and contains an important regional archive.Vadstena Castle

Vadstena Castle

Vadstena has a feeling of ancient peace about it. It’s been a pilgrimage center for several hundred years. The old wooden buildings are perfectly maintained. The town square is dominated by one of the oldest town halls in Sweden. There are narrow, winding cobbled streets. You can peak into interior courtyards through intriguing garden gates. The people are quiet and don’t speak to or look at strangers while passing them on the street. They are handsome and well dressed. The women are fond of leggings with skirts over them. Everyone I talk to is earnest, eager to communicate yet unassuming.Old Town Hall

Old Town Hall

Courtyard

Courtyard


Lake Vattern

Lake Vattern

I love it here and spend 8 days!!!

Posted by Swedensolo 18.10.2010 11:15 Archived in Sweden Tagged churches Comments (0)

FAMILY ARCHIVES

Searching into the Heart of Family History

The Vadstena Landsarkivet, located in a wing of Vadstena Castle, is a regional archive of the Swedish National Archives. I spend many wonderful days here researching my father’s family history. After pursuing rabbit trails for several days, an intelligent and well- spoken young man, Stefan Ingesson, joins the search. Our research rewrites my family’s history.Historic Lars Carlsson Farm, Kushult, Sweden?

Historic Lars Carlsson Farm, Kushult, Sweden?

The Colson family came to Oakland, Nebraska in 1866 from Odeshog Sweden – a small town about 10 miles south of Vadstena. In a 1950 family archive, my great-aunt Ida traced our family to Lars Carlsson, a farmer born 1755 in “Kushult” a mile southeast of Odeshog. He owned a beautiful farm there near Lake Vattern. It is my mission to locate his original farm and to trace family roots prior to 1755. My great-grandfather Victor was the first of his family to come to the United States and decided to change his name from Carlsson to Colson when he took out his license to wed in 1864. This desire for “uniqueness” or “specialness” is a trait running throughout my family and I found it to exist even prior to Lars Carlsson.

Through conversations with the "locals" in Odeshog and farmers in the area, my best guess is the farm I photographed above. Later research tells me that the family owned several pieces of property in the area. This farm,however, is the most likely as its topography resembes old pictures of the farm. Lake Vatten - My ancestors' land overlooked this deep, glacial lake

Lake Vatten - My ancestors' land overlooked this deep, glacial lake

Rocky shores overlooking Lake Vattern

Rocky shores overlooking Lake Vattern

I fall in love with Lars Carlsson. Lars was born in 1755 but didn’t die in1851 as originally reported in family records. Official records in Vadstena verifify that he actually died in 1786 of pneumonia. I also find his parents, my great, great, great, great grandparents, Carl Johann Broberg and Britta Jonsdotter. Carl Johann died in 1759 leaving his widow, Britta, and several small children. Little Lars survived this catastrophe and prior to dying at 38 years of age became a substantial farmer. He was also a “rusthallare” earning the right to limited taxation by supplying the king’s army with cavalry equipment and horses. I am continuing to research this portion of the family tree through the Swedish Genealogical Society. My latest research indicates that Carl Johann Broberg was a descendant of the ancient and noble von Brobergen family from Rhentrakten, Germany. Henrik von Brobergen was a merchant who was naturalized as a Swedish citizen in 1678 and introduced into the Swedish House of Nobles in 1680 (No. 883) Recently, Arne Ivarsson wrote a long history of land ownership in the Kushult area of Sweden and writes extensively on the history of the von Brogergen family in the area. Old Fields in Kushult, Sweden

Old Fields in Kushult, Sweden

Fields my ancestors farmed

Fields my ancestors farmed

After I visit and photograph the Kushult area, I finally locate nearby Skradeberg, an area of farms bordering the rocky shores of Lake Vattern. My great grandfather, Victor, farmed a piece of land there - now an area of horse farms. As I sit on the rocks overlooking Lake Vattern and watch fishermen in a small boat fishing for crayfish. I imagine my great grandfather fishing this lake over 150 years ago. I feel so connected...so at home....so at peace. I nearly get lost hiking up the cliff from the shore of the lake!! It's great exercise, however, and I think I've lost 5 pounds since arriving in Sweden a few days ago. It's late August – but already windy and quite chilly – a beautiful location – but the climate – challenging.Skradeberg Farm now a horse farm

Skradeberg Farm now a horse farm

Skradeberg Farm with Lake Vattern in the distance

Skradeberg Farm with Lake Vattern in the distance

I visit the Odeshog Church, attended by my Swedish family from at least the early 1700's. It's beautifully maintained and according to the sexton on duty, well attended. I am amused there is a runestone in its foundation. Odeshog Church-Dating back to around 1150

Odeshog Church-Dating back to around 1150

Odeshog Church - Interior

Odeshog Church - Interior

Runestone in the Church's Foundation - I would love to know what this one says!!!

Runestone in the Church's Foundation - I would love to know what this one says!!!

I am finding it hard to describe how I feel as my visit here ends. I can imagine the hard labor in the fields, the teams of horses, the women's endless farm work. I can imagine how Carl Larsson must have felt losing his father so young and carrying on for his widowed mother's sake. I can imagine families driving horse and buggies into church. I can imagine an imperious Lutheran minister visiting and taking a state required census to make sure everyone was baptized and behaving. My family worked hard, prospered and passed along great genes. I'm lucky to be a recipient of their DNA and more than ever value this gift of life. Sunset over Lake Vattern

Sunset over Lake Vattern

Posted by Swedensolo 18.10.2010 15:37 Archived in Sweden Tagged familyresearch Comments (2)

Budget accommodation in Sweden

Read reviews from other Travellerspoint members.

MOUNT OMBERG

The Mystical Mountain and the Majestic Ostergotland Plain

Omberg is a prehistoric peak that separates Lake Vattern from the Ostergotland plain. It is a mountain of legends and mists. During the Iron Age, people built a hill fort on it for protection. Bronze Age people carved figures in the granite just below it at Hastholmen Harbor.Harbor at Hastholmen

Harbor at Hastholmen

View of Mount Omberg across Lake Vattern from Hastholmen Harbor

View of Mount Omberg across Lake Vattern from Hastholmen Harbor


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In 1143, a group of French Cistercian monks arrived at Omberg and built Alvastra Monastery at its base. This monastery became powerful and influential – eventually controlling around 400 farms. During the reformation, the monastery was closed and its lands taken over by the crown. The ruins remain, silent and mysterious, a testimony to a 1000 year old sacred space.The Ruins of Alvastra Monastery

The Ruins of Alvastra Monastery

Alvastra was built at the base of Mt. Omberg by French Cistercian monks

Alvastra was built at the base of Mt. Omberg by French Cistercian monks

Alvastra was a powerful monastery - once controlling over 400 farms

Alvastra was a powerful monastery - once controlling over 400 farms

I climb to the top of Mount Omberg and meet a charming retired Swedish gentleman .He singles me out as an “American” and begins a conversation ultimately inviting me for coffee in Odeshog. I stand amazed at these older, still very good looking and fit Swedes who flirt openly. I love it but decline the invitation. Meanwhile, I enjoy the views of the magnificent Ostergotland Plain - one of the most productive agricultural spots in all of Sweden - and in fact in the world. The size of the wheat fields, barns, storage silos and wind generators is staggering.
The Ostergotland Plain

The Ostergotland Plain

Lake Takern as viewed from the top of Mt. Omberg

Lake Takern as viewed from the top of Mt. Omberg


Moon Over Lake Takern

Moon Over Lake Takern

I also visit “The Strand”, Ellen Keys home, at the base of Mount Omberg overlooking Lake Vattern. Ellen Keys is the world famous Swedish feminist. The home and location are breathtaking and a retired pharmacist, who summers in Odeshog and winters in Stockholm, gives me a private tour in English. She is charming. I am blown away by Swedish women – young, middle aged or beyond.
The Strand at the base of Mt. Omberg

The Strand at the base of Mt. Omberg

I have a personal interest in Ellen Keys because she figures greatly in the book, Loving Frank, by Nancy Horan. Mayme
Cheney (Frank Lloyd Wright’s mistress and great love) was Keys American translator, having learned Swedish for just that purpose. Mayme had signed the guest book at The Strand while on a visit but I couldn’t find her entry. I am shocked that my guide had never heard of Mayme Cheney nor of Frank Lloyd Wright. If you are an American who thinks the world still revolves around our ideas, I have news for you....it doesn't.View from The Strand

View from The Strand

Posted by Swedensolo 18.10.2010 17:00 Archived in Sweden Comments (0)

COUNTRY ROADS AND RUNESTONES

Experiencing the Rural Heart of Sweden

I admit it!!!! I'm a sucker for traveling over country roads and searching for out of the way villages, churches and runestones. Believe me, I get my fill in Ostergotland. The Swedish road system is wonderful and roads to even the tiny villages are paved and well marked. The churches and graveyards, for the most part, are kept in pristine condition. Check out the size of these barns, silos and fields!!

Check out the size of these barns, silos and fields!!

Giant Windmills

Giant Windmills

Country house near St. Aby

Country house near St. Aby


Country Manor House

Country Manor House

After the Viking Age, Sweden slowly transitioned into Christianity – although not until the mid 11th century. Many of these charming churches date from that time as the “new religion” spread church building fervor across the land. Two of the most
charming, well preserved and ancient are at Vaversunda and Bjalbo.

Church at Vaversunda

Church at Vaversunda


Chapel at Vaversunda

Chapel at Vaversunda


Recently Restored Crucifix dating from the 1100's

Recently Restored Crucifix dating from the 1100's

]Remarkable Door at Roglosa Church

Remarkable Door at Roglosa Church

Blajbo, the patrician estate of the royal Folkunging family, has been inhabited from the 9th century. It’s church dates from 1222.

Church Steeple at Bjalbo Church

Church Steeple at Bjalbo Church

Runestones tell a story and appear throughout Sweden. Vikings, raiding Europe, discovered writing and brought it back to Sweden in the form of runes. These stones, considered to have magical powers, were erected to honor the dead or serve as memorials. Rok-stone, to the east of Mt Omberg, is perhaps the most famous. As paganism began to wane, stones were still erected but incorporated crosses into their design.
Runestone at Bjalbo

Runestone at Bjalbo


World Famous Rok-stone

World Famous Rok-stone

Posted by Swedensolo 19.10.2010 12:28 Archived in Sweden Tagged churches Comments (0)

KALMAR-OLAND-LUND

A Tale of Near Disaster or Why Having No Plan Is Not a Plan

My long standing dream of touring historic Kalmar Castle and then the Baltic Islands of Oland and Gotland is nearly realized. I tour enormous Kalmar Castle in a rain and windstorm. The castle is cold and drafty and I feel a chill coming on. Our guide is fabulous. He’s a young student from Kalmar University training to teach. He’s in love with history and it shows. I’m the only tourist who asks questions. I give him a generous tip and he nearly falls over with delight.

Historic Kalmar

Historic Kalmar


Students returning to Kalmar University

Students returning to Kalmar University


Student hijinx

Student hijinx


Kalmar Castle was an important defense castle for the Vasa kings

Kalmar Castle was an important defense castle for the Vasa kings


Moat surrounding Kalmar Castle

Moat surrounding Kalmar Castle


Canons of Kalmar Castle face an angry Baltic Sea

Canons of Kalmar Castle face an angry Baltic Sea

It’s so miserable in Kalmar, I decide to drive over the bridge to Oland, find a B and B and wait out the storm. I visit the enormous, ruined castle of Bornholm during a windstorm for the ages. I visit the town of Borgholm but can barely push out my car door against the wind. I can’t find a café with wireless access and the library (with internet access) is closed. I rue the fact my phone doesn’t work in Europe. At this point I just want to get away from wind and rain and my cold is getting worse.
Location of Kalmar and bridge to Oland

Location of Kalmar and bridge to Oland


Bornholm Castle - On the Baltic Island of Oland

Bornholm Castle - On the Baltic Island of Oland


One of Oland's famous windmills

One of Oland's famous windmills


Cows have the right of way on Oland

Cows have the right of way on Oland

I decide to give up the ferry trip from Oland to Gotland and drive south to Skane and the home village of my great grandmother, Hana Hansdotter. This will get me into Ahus about 3 p.m. This plan backfires when I get shaved off the Kalmar roundabout and miss E-22. Instead, I find myself back on the road to Vaxjo!!! I don’t have the opportunity to reverse my course for about 20 miles so I decide to press on to Lund, as I want to visit the Archive there and research my mother’s family. I forget how slow going the roads are as they pass through small towns, villages and school zones. Roadwork presents further delays and detours and I arrive, in a disarrayed state, in front of the Grand Hotel at 8 p.m. It's dark, windy,and spooky and I wish I were home.
A grey day is brightened by an adorable home painted the color of sunshine

A grey day is brightened by an adorable home painted the color of sunshine

Even at the Grand, there is no valet parking….not even a loading zone!!! Car unfriendly!!! I find a parking spot and walk to the hotel to register. Two grubby looking backpackers are registering ahead of me. The Grand was once the pinnacle of elegance. It’s still beautiful but the lady is aging…in fact she's getting a face lift!!! I get lost trying to find my parked car and a wonderful man, Kalle, from the hotel, helps me find it and park it in an underground garage. We drag my luggage over cobbled streets to the hotel. In the space of 60 minutes we tell each other our life stories and connect in an uncanny way – a Swedish Swede and a Swedish American – same age, same vintage. Lund is a joyous city full of handsome and fresh-faced students. The main town square, full of shops, pubs, restaurants, flowers and people, is vibrant…I feel the energy. It’s one of my favorite cities in Sweden. In the morning I wake up to brilliant sunshine.
The Grand Hotel

The Grand Hotel


Historic Lund - Home of Lund Cathedral and Lund University

Historic Lund - Home of Lund Cathedral and Lund University

Students returning to Lund University

Students returning to Lund University

Posted by Swedensolo 19.10.2010 18:47 Archived in Sweden Comments (0)

ANNA MARIA

Life in a Small Swedish Village

My mother was born in a small village in northern Skane, just a couple of miles east of Horby. The terrain there is rocky and stone fences enclose small fields. Mother grew up in a poor household of five children, her father a blacksmith and small farmer. When I visited Svenskop with her 25 years ago, the village seemed cheerier and the houses in better repair.

Svenskop,  My Mother's Home Village

Svenskop, My Mother's Home Village


Old Stone Barn

Old Stone Barn


Stone fences; Small fields

Stone fences; Small fields


Typical Old Wooden House in Northern Skane

Typical Old Wooden House in Northern Skane


My mother's was baptized in this church

My mother's was baptized in this church

My grandmother, Anna Maria Hallberg Landen is a legend in my family. She told wondrous, magical stories to her children. She evoked an aura of sadness and mystery and her husband and children adored her. Her portrait shows what an extraordinarily beautiful woman she was. When I visit her grave, memories overwhelm me.

Anna Maria’s mother died when she was 15 years old and she remembered weeping over the body, her tears splashing off her mother’s face. After raising her younger siblings, she left to work at a large manor house near her home. She came back pregnant, devastated and disgraced. Her father arranged a hasty marriage to a former admirer and somewhat older man, Jens Nilsson Landen. He raised her little boy, Oscar, as his own and together they had 4 children, one of them my mother, Elsa. It was not a happy marriage; they never rose above respectable poverty and he compensated for his unreturned love with alcohol.

What happened to this magnificent woman?? As a young woman, was she compromised or had she fallen in love? If so, why didn’t she marry the father of her child? Perhaps he was already married. Perhaps he was the Lord of the Manor. Perhaps he was the type of man who can own you with just a gaze. She may have loved him the rest of her life.

The mystery of her life remains, but I leave Sweden with a new hero – Jens Nilsson Landen. This man was poor but proud; he had dignity. His unconditional love for his wife and family, under difficult circumstances, shows what he was made of. He would be gratified to learn that his grandson, a first generation American, became a respected medical doctor and his great grandson graduated with a PhD in Mathematics from Harvard University.

Anna Maria's Grave

Anna Maria's Grave


Churchyard where my grandmother and grandfather are buried

Churchyard where my grandmother and grandfather are buried


My mother's humble birthplace

My mother's humble birthplace


Old Stone Fence

Old Stone Fence

Old house with thatched roof - dating from the early 1800's

Old house with thatched roof - dating from the early 1800's


Ruined Stone Church in Svenskop - Dating from 1100's

Ruined Stone Church in Svenskop - Dating from 1100's


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Posted by Swedensolo 20.10.2010 14:37 Archived in Sweden Comments (0)

YSTAD

At the Southern Tip of Sweden

If Svenskop was sad, Ystad is the antidote. As I drive south in the long, narrow country of Sweden, I keep descending in altitude. At the bottom of this cornucopia lies southern Skane with its wide blue sky, immense and productive grain fields, tree- lined country roads, gorgeous homes, manors and castles, and white sandy beaches along the Baltic. For me, it’s heaven.

Ystad, at the very southern tip, is the most charming town I visit in Sweden. I arrive on Saturday, market day, and the walking streets are jammed with shoppers and diners at sidewalk cafes. Ystad has preserved its medieval character with narrow, winding cobbled streets and vividly painted half –timbered houses. The newer stucco homes bloom in the coastal colors of teal, shell pink, creamy beige and lemon yellow. Autumn roses wind through trellises and garden gates. From its harbor, enormous ferryboats shuttle passengers and significant cargo between Poland and Sweden.
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Ystad has another reason to be famous. In the fictional world of Henning Mankell’s Wallender detective series, Ystad is Kurt Wallender’s hometown. Wallender is very famous in Europe and many visitors to Ystad go there just to follow in his footsteps. As the BBC series "Wallender," starring Kenneth Branah, reaches America, Ystad will become even better known

The Harbor at Ystad

The Harbor at Ystad


Large Ferries carry cargo and passengers to Poland

Large Ferries carry cargo and passengers to Poland


Park near old cloisters and church

Park near old cloisters and church

Town Square

Town Square

Also on the town square

Also on the town square


A charming street in old Ystad

A charming street in old Ystad


These are the oldest structures in Ystad

These are the oldest structures in Ystad


Home in old area of Ystad

Home in old area of Ystad

Best Way to Get Around Sweden!!!

Best Way to Get Around Sweden!!!

The beaches and countryside around Ystad are beautiful!!

White sand beaches near Ystad

White sand beaches near Ystad


More Beaches

More Beaches


Boats Near the Beach

Boats Near the Beach


Ancient Stone Monument overlooking the Baltic

Ancient Stone Monument overlooking the Baltic


Elegant Manor House of Marvinsholm

Elegant Manor House of Marvinsholm


Charlottelund Manor House near Svarte

Charlottelund Manor House near Svarte

Almost by accident I find Anno 1793 Sekelgarden Hotell and stay for 7 days.From this wonderful small hotel, I tour the Osterlen region of Skane. The Sekelgarden Hotell is owned and managed by Peter Shonstrom.Peter is a quiet, serious man who is never without his reservation book. He is a man of many ideas, experiences and knowledge who treats his guests with integrity and generosity. I learn a lot about Sweden from him
Anno 1793 Sekelgarden Hotell, Ystad

Anno 1793 Sekelgarden Hotell, Ystad


Peter Schonstrom and his Famous Book

Peter Schonstrom and his Famous Book

Posted by Swedensolo 22.10.2010 15:21 Archived in Sweden Comments (0)

ALES STENAR

Mystery Tour of Osterlen

The southeastern region of Skane is known as Osterlen. For my money, it's the most beautiful in Sweden. As I set out from Ystad, I visit the adorable village of Kaseberga, set behind lush green hills that protect it from the wrath of the Baltic. On a high cliff overlooking the Baltic, and taxing your legs and lungs, lies Ales Stenar (Ale's Stones). This is a mysterious Stonehenge- type monument, with 58 large stones arranged in the shape of a ship. Noone knows for sure what purpose it served - some say an ancient observatory - others claim it was for religious or funeral rites.

Further down the road I visit the charming seaport of Simrishamn and then Glimmingehus, a medieval castle stronghold built around 1500. As I drive through this gorgeous, lush, productive countryside, I easily see why the Swedes and Danes fought for centuries over ownership of "Scania." For Sweden's sake, I'm glad they finally wrested it away from Denmark even though it took them until the 17th Century!

Village of Kaseberga

Village of Kaseberga


Marina at Kaseberga

Marina at Kaseberga


On the Road in Osterlen

On the Road in Osterlen

Ales Stenar - The Swedish Stonehenge

Ales Stenar - The Swedish Stonehenge

Ales Stenar - Another View

Ales Stenar - Another View


Commentary on Ales Stenar

Commentary on Ales Stenar

Newly Harvested Fields in Osterlen

Newly Harvested Fields in Osterlen


Stone Church at Simrishamn

Stone Church at Simrishamn


Harbor at Simrishamn

Harbor at Simrishamn

Glimmingehus, A medieval defense castle built around 1500

Glimmingehus, A medieval defense castle built around 1500


Front View of Castle

Front View of Castle


Interior of Castle - Doesn't look too cozy

Interior of Castle - Doesn't look too cozy


Don't let this happen to you!!

Don't let this happen to you!!


How Glimmingehus looked in 1680

How Glimmingehus looked in 1680


Country Church with Separate Bell Tower

Country Church with Separate Bell Tower


I envy these sheep!!!!

I envy these sheep!!!!

Posted by Swedensolo 22.10.2010 16:55 Comments (0)

OVEDSKLOSTER

The "Piece d'resistance" of My Trip

Ovedskloster is a large landed estate in the countryside near Sjobo. The castle, completed in 1776 by the immensely wealthy Baron Hans Ramel, was built in the classic French manor style with a front “cour d’honneur.” Descendents of Baron Ramel still live in the castle and continue to manage the extensive estate. I truly experience a trip back in time to the 18th century – with all its romance and sensory pleasure.

I stay at the guesthouse and enjoy the walking trails through the surrounding beech forest and adjoining lake, the extensive gardens and lawns, and the tree-lined roads leading to and from the castle and its church. I ask for and am granted a private tour of the castle. The interior is magnificent, pristine and nearly untouched since its completion. I begin to sense the sweetness of the lives lived here during Sweden’s ornate and glittering Gustavian Age.

The current baron and baroness, Otto and Eva Ramel, are very real, “in touch” people. Warm and friendly, they share their magnificent estate by offering its grounds as a venue for horseback riding and eventing, art workshops, tours and musical concerts. My wish for them is that they will be able to pass along this magnificent piece of living history, intact, for future generations to experience and enjoy. Ovedskloster, without a doubt, is the piece d’resistance of my trip
Ovedskloster Formal Lawn and Gardens

Ovedskloster Formal Lawn and Gardens

The impressive front courtyard at Ovedskloster forms a "cour d'honneur." You hear your footsteps echo as you cross it.

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Another View of Ovedskloster

Another View of Ovedskloster


Rare Linden Tree

Rare Linden Tree

Framing Detail on Ovedskloster Barn - Awaiting a New Roof

Framing Detail on Ovedskloster Barn - Awaiting a New Roof


Detail of original barn window

Detail of original barn window


Private chapel at Ovedskloster

Private chapel at Ovedskloster

LIme Trees Line Road to Private Chapel

LIme Trees Line Road to Private Chapel

Guest house at Ovedskloster

Guest house at Ovedskloster


Adorable alpacas do not like petting - but enjoying posing!

Adorable alpacas do not like petting - but enjoying posing!


Walking Trail near Ovedskloster

Walking Trail near Ovedskloster


Sunset over Lake Vombsjon - A short walk from the castle

Sunset over Lake Vombsjon - A short walk from the castle

Posted by Swedensolo 23.10.2010 18:20 Archived in Sweden Tagged castles Comments (0)

MORE CASTLES

From Bosjoskloster to Ahus

From Ovedskloster, I visit another historic castle, Bosjoskloster, currently owned by the once royal Bonde family. It's a gorgeous palace, originally built as a monastery (thus the word kloster), overlooking Lake Ringsjon. Nearly a thousand years ago, the monastery was built on an island in Lake Ringsjon. The lakes have receded, however, and the castle now lies on a narrow strip of land between East Ring and West Ring lakes.

I visit it on a rare gloriously sunny day. Family members open its grounds, chapel and museum to the public and I meet an elegant older gentleman who greets me at the entry gate. I assume he is somewhat of a "Bonde."

There is a sad story about Lake Ringsjon. In the 1500's the heir to Bosjoskloster drowned in the lake on his 12th birthday. His mother, a powerful noblewoman, had just attained Bosjoskloster from the King of Denmark in a shrewd trade . So it seems.... money never buys happiness - even when you best the King of Denmark.

I also visit Vittsklove, an elegant country manor, near Yngsjo and Ahus. On the day I visit, the castle is closed and what's more the bridge to Ahus is out so I circle around Decaburga driving through the coastal town of Yngsjo to Ahus - a beautiful little seaport town on the Baltic. My great grandmother, Hanna Hansdotter, and her brother set out from Ahus on a sailing ship in the 1860's - arriving six weeks later in New York City. She married my great grandfather Victor Carlsson (Colson) in 1864 in Rock Island, Illinois.

Bosjoskloster - Castle overlooking Lake Ringsjon

Bosjoskloster - Castle overlooking Lake Ringsjon


Interior Courtyard of Bosjoskloster

Interior Courtyard of Bosjoskloster


Chapel at Bosjoskloster

Chapel at Bosjoskloster


Arbor leading to the castle garden

Arbor leading to the castle garden


View of Lake Ringsjon from the castle grounds

View of Lake Ringsjon from the castle grounds


Vittskolve Castle near Ahus

Vittskolve Castle near Ahus


Medieval Center at Ahus

Medieval Center at Ahus


Marina at Ahus

Marina at Ahus

Posted by Swedensolo 23.10.2010 20:02 Archived in Sweden Tagged castles Comments (0)

HORSE HEAVEN

My Visit to Flyinge

Horse lovers, it does not get any better than this!! Thanks to Christine at Ovedskloster, I learn about this historic facility and visit one warm, sunny afternoon. I am in absolute heaven. What a treat to see a real live Swedish Warmblood horse. Wow....what gorgeous horseflesh. The facilities are fabulous and the horses are to die for. I am on a high for days!!!

Flyinge is the largest and best known breeding facility in Sweden and one of the world's oldest active national studs dating back to the 12th century. In 1661, King Carl Gustaf X established it as a Royal Stud. It is a centre for breeding, research and training and since 1983, Flyinge
A B has been owned by a trust that speciaiizes in breeding the Swedish Warmblood, equestrian sports, veterinary medicine, training and eventing. It is open to visitors on a daily basis and if you call in advance you can request a tour.

FYI - Flyinge is NOT prounounced Flying E - --but more like fliningeur - with my apologies to the Swedes for always mispronouncing their LOVELY vowels.
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Stables and facilities

Stables and facilities


Inside the elegant stables

Inside the elegant stables


Training in the difficult sport of dressage

Training in the difficult sport of dressage


School girls riding to their lessons

School girls riding to their lessons


This lonely guy just needed a head scratch

This lonely guy just needed a head scratch


Swedish Beauties

Swedish Beauties

Posted by Swedensolo 24.10.2010 15:06 Archived in Sweden Tagged horses Comments (0)

COPENHAGEN TO DENVER

Last Days in Sweden

I spend the last few days in Malmo, regrouping and planning for the trip home. I’ve been on such a high (natural); I need to come down a bit to return home.

I enjoy this wonderful southern port city that benefits from easy access to Copenhagen and the mainland of Europe via the Oresund Bridge. I sense energy and determination everywhere. Of all the cities I visited in Sweden, Malmo reminds me most of America. Lots of young people everywhere – lots of pride in their city – lots of optimism. I could easily live here.

I have mixed feelings leaving Sweden. It is the Mother (and Father) lode of my DNA. In a sense I owe everything to it and I owe nothing to it. Somehow I know the soul of Sweden. It has appeared in all my family over all the generations and it is evident in me. There’s a worldly sadness about Sweden that’s deep within me. I think every Swede carries it – I know I do.

I am happy for Sweden today. Finally, her people have grabbed the brass ring for themselves, It’s their turn and it’s long overdue. Sweden lost nearly a million people to the United State in the 19th century. Will she lose many more??? Perhaps a few but it’s a good country now and one that values its resources in all senses of the word.

What will I do when I come home? I will rejoice that I’ve come full circle and have come to realize the great richness of my life and my God-given gifts. I truly have found my place – and it’s home.

So….tomorrow I will take the train over the Oresund Bridge to Copenhagen. I’ll stay at the posh Copenhagen Airport Hilton for a couple of days, cross the street from the hotel to the airport on Monday morning and take the plane home.

Oresund Bridge

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Beautiful Malmo

Park in Malmo

Park in Malmo


Parliamentary Candidates speaking in the town square

Parliamentary Candidates speaking in the town square


Beautiful sandstone buildings on the town square

Beautiful sandstone buildings on the town square


Parade in downtown Malmo

Parade in downtown Malmo


State Building - Malmo is the Capitol of Skane

State Building - Malmo is the Capitol of Skane

Skane flag combines yellow from Sweden, red from Denmark

Skane flag combines yellow from Sweden, red from Denmark


Office of Iraqui Airlines

Office of Iraqui Airlines


Swedes love to eat in sidewalk cafes - even it it's cold!!!

Swedes love to eat in sidewalk cafes - even it it's cold!!!

Hador, Sweden!!

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Posted by Swedensolo 25.10.2010 20:34 Archived in Sweden Comments (0)

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